dig2go & WLED questions, sorted.

The dig2go is a tiny, plug-and-play controller for addressable LED strips. It's a small USB-C powered box with a dual-core ESP32 inside, running WLED out of the box. Connect power on one side and a strip on the other, and you control colours and effects from your phone. No soldering, nothing to install.

The dig2go is designed to be exactly that. It ships in a finished case with WLED already installed and configured, powers from any USB-C cable, and includes a short lead to plug your LED strip into. There's no flashing, no soldering and no bare board to wire. You plug in power, connect a strip, and you're running colour in minutes.

You need a controller. Addressable strips (WS2812B, SK6812 and similar) have a data line, and every pixel waits for a signal telling it what to show. Power on its own does nothing useful. The dig2go generates that signal, and runs WLED so you can pick colours and effects from your phone.

No. The dig2go arrives fully assembled in a molded case with a short connector lead for your strip in the box, and WLED is already flashed and configured. You connect a USB-C power source and your LED strip. That's the whole job.

A typical cheap controller drives the whole strip one colour at a time. The dig2go drives addressable strips, where every LED is its own pixel. That means chases, gradients, sparkle and per-pixel animation, and it reacts to sound too. It also runs WLED, with hundreds of effects you control from an app or your smart home.

Any common 5V addressable strip: WS2812B, SK6812 in both RGB and RGBW, WS2811, plus bullet pixels and seed pixels. It does not drive plain analog (single-colour) strips, and it's 5V only, so not 12V or 24V strips.

Both are 5V addressable strips. WS2812B mixes red, green and blue to make colours, including white, which can look slightly tinted. SK6812 RGBW adds a dedicated white LED, so whites are cleaner and warmer. For everyday room lighting most people prefer SK6812 RGBW. For pure colour effects, WS2812B is great and a little cheaper.

Yes. It fully supports SK6812 RGBW, which has a separate white LED alongside red, green and blue. WLED controls that white channel, so you get proper warm or neutral white as well as colour. The RGBW 5 m kit is built around exactly this.

If it's a 5V addressable strip (WS2812B, SK6812, WS2811 or similar), yes. Check the markings or listing: it should mention an addressable chip and a data line, often labelled DI or DIN. If it's a plain single-colour strip, or 12V/24V, the dig2go isn't the right controller for it.

Around 300 LEDs, roughly a 5 m strip at 60 LEDs per metre, which is what its USB-C power budget (5V, up to 15W) comfortably supports. The chip can address more, but for a tidy plug-and-play setup the power budget is the practical limit. Longer or denser runs need a bigger supply and power injection.

No. The dig2go is 5V only, which is what keeps it simple and USB-powered. For 12V or 24V addressable strips, or much longer runs, look at the larger QuinLED controllers like the Dig-Next line.

Plug in USB-C power (a green light means it's on) and connect your strip. On your phone, join the Wi-Fi network WLED-AP (it may be named QuinLED-AP) with the password wled1234, then open a browser to 4.3.2.1 (or use the WLED app). Play with colours straight away, then add the dig2go to your home Wi-Fi in the WiFi Setup menu. The full guide walks through every step.

First check it has power, as the status light should be on. The WLED-AP (or QuinLED-AP) network only appears when the controller isn't already joined to a known Wi-Fi, so if it connected to a network earlier it won't broadcast its own. Re-power it, wait a minute, and look on a 2.4GHz capable device.

Yes. It can run standalone in its own access-point mode, so you connect to it directly with no home network, which is handy for portable projects. You can also pair an IR remote to change colours and effects with no phone or network at all.

The dig2go has a built-in microphone, so no extra hardware is needed. In WLED, open Config → Usermods, tick Enabled on the AudioReactive usermod, then Save and re-power the dig2go. Pick a sound-reactive effect and it'll move to whatever's playing.

To fine-tune it, open Config → Usermods → AudioReactive: lower the Squelch if quiet sounds get ignored, and raise the Gain (30 is the default) if it isn't reacting enough.

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However suits you: the free WLED app (iOS and Android), any web browser pointed at the controller, or a small IR remote. Because it runs WLED you can also add it to Home Assistant, use Alexa or Google voice control, and save presets and schedules.

Yes. Like almost all ESP32 smart devices, the dig2go uses 2.4GHz Wi-Fi, not 5GHz. Most routers broadcast both, so just connect it to the 2.4GHz network during setup.

Yes. It runs on 5V over USB-C and draws up to 15W, so a phone charger, laptop USB port or power bank all work. For a full strip at full brightness, use an adapter rated around 3A. By default the dig2go limits current to a safe level, which you can raise in WLED if your supply allows.

The dig2go ships with a safety power limiter set to 1250 mA, which caps brightness so a small adapter can't be overloaded. With a good 5V / 3A (15 W) adapter you can raise it: open Config → LED Preferences and increase the milliamp limit (up to around 3000 mA). If the dig2go reboots or the colours shift when you do, your adapter can't supply that much current, so set it back down.

A steady green light means all is well. If the green light pulses or flickers, the power supply or power bank usually can't provide enough current, so the dig2go briefly browns out and restarts. Switch to a better 5V power source rated around 3A, use a good quality cable, and lower the brightness or LED count if needed. Some power banks also switch off when a small device draws very little, which can look like flickering.

That's voltage drop. The far end of a long 5V strip gets slightly less voltage, which dims it and can tint whites. It's normal physics, not a fault. Staying within roughly 5 m helps, and longer runs need power injected partway along. The dig2go's current limit also keeps things safe by gently capping brightness.

Yes. It has separate protection circuits and self-resetting fuses on both the LED output and its own electronics, so a short or overload trips safely and then recovers. It ships in a finished, screwless case with no exposed board, so it's fine to leave on a shelf or desk.

Check three things. Power: the green light on the dig2go should be on. Direction: the strip's arrows must point away from the controller, and data must go to the strip's data-in (DI) end. Strip type: make sure WLED is set to the right chip (for example WS2812B vs SK6812) in LED settings.

WLED defaults to a small LED count until you tell it how many you actually have, so anything past that default stays dark even though the data signal is reaching it. In WLED open Config → LED Preferences, find the LED count for your output, and set it to the real number of LEDs on your strip. A 5 m strip at 60 LEDs per metre is 300, for example. Save, and the rest of the strip lights up straight away. If you later add to or shorten the strip, just update this number again.

That's a colour-order mismatch. Different strips arrange their colour channels in a different order, usually RGB or GRB, so WLED can send what it thinks is green while your strip reads it as red. In WLED open Config → LED Preferences and change the colour order until green shows as green and red shows as red. RGBW strips add a white channel, so you'll see orders like GRBW there too. It's a one-time setting per strip, so once it looks right you can leave it alone.

This is the classic RGB vs RGBW mismatch. It happens when WLED is set to a plain RGB strip but you actually have a 4-channel RGBW strip like SK6812 RGBW or WS2814. The extra white channel is mis-mapped, so colours shift and you get no clean white.

Fix it in WLED under Config → LED Preferences: set the strip type to SK6812 / RGBW (or the matching RGBW type), then set the colour order, usually GRBW. Once the type matches your strip, white and every colour look correct.

Flicker usually comes down to power or data. Make sure your USB-C supply delivers enough current, use a decent cable, and keep the data run from controller to strip reasonably short. The dig2go level-shifts its data line for a clean signal, which already removes the most common cause of glitching on cheaper boards.

Some networks, and some phones, don't resolve the wled.local (mDNS) name, so the address just times out. The fix is to reach the dig2go by its IP address instead. Find it in your router's list of connected devices (look for a WLED or ESP entry), or open the WLED app, which scans the network and discovers controllers for you, then tap to open it. Once you have the IP, type it straight into a browser and bookmark it so you can get back any time. The IP can change after a reboot unless you reserve it in your router.

Almost always this means the update flashed a plain WLED build that isn't pre-configured for the dig2go, so the output pins reset. The easy fix is to re-flash the bundled build at install.quinled.info over USB, which sets everything up for you.

Prefer to configure it by hand? In Config → LED Preferences set the LED data output to GPIO 16, and don't forget the relay (LED power) pin. The pinout guide lists the exact values.

Connect the dig2go to a computer with USB-C and go to install.quinled.info in a Chrome-based browser. Select the dig2go and it reflashes the bundled WLED build over USB, resetting to defaults. A good first step if a setting ever gets into a confusing state.

Start at quinled.shop: the official dig2go product page lets you pick the reseller for your region, like DrZzs (United States), Allnet (worldwide; the bullet-pixel kit is Allnet-only), Jerems (Canada) or QuinLED NL (Europe). Starting from scratch? A complete kit is easiest, and the SK6812 RGBW 5 m kit is the all-rounder most people are happiest with. Prices vary by region, so check your shop.

Yes on both counts. WLED is free, open-source firmware, and shipping hardware with it pre-installed is perfectly fine. The dig2go comes pre-flashed so you skip setup, and because it's your hardware you can update WLED or switch firmware whenever you like.

Start with the getting-started guide, then the detailed docs at quinled.info. For hands-on help, join the Intermittent Technology Discord and ask in the quinled-troubleshooting channel. An active, friendly community.